Knitting Patterns  

Knitting Tips

   Increasing - Binding Off - Decreasing - Yarn Over

"Increasing evenly spaced" across the row.

             I usually increase on a knitting pattern by evenly by dividing the number of sts to be increased by the number to increase, and then increasing in that increment across the row; quite often you have to adjust the number as you work across, especially if your division does not give you an even number, or if you are working in a pattern stitch.

            Most of the time you would not increase in the first and last st when working on a flat piece.  Sometimes, however, you might want to increase in the first and last st if you are trying to get some special effect. 

            On a k2, p2 ribbing it is best not to increase in the right side knit stitches as it shows more there.  You would also not want to increase in a pattern stitch, such as cables, in a way that would make the pattern pull funny or look unsightly.  Best to increase in the "plain" part of the pattern.

Bind off in patt?

       "Bind off in pattern" means to maintain the pattern stitch as you bind off.  In other words, don't do it all in knit - purl where you would normally purl in the pattern.

 Right or "public" side of cast on edge.

             Almost all knitting patterns have you cast on and begin the first row as the right side which makes the back part of your cast-on sts the public side.  There are many different ways to cast on, however, which leave different looking edges.  I often like to make the first row my back side because I prefer the look of the back edge of the two finger cast-on I use.

 Invisible increases

             The lifted increase is the most invisible.  Bar increase is the next most invisible.

 Do not use lifted increase every other row

             A lifted increase will pucker the fabric if used every other row because it is shortening every other stitch.  However, my swatch came out pretty darn flat - perhaps it is a greater problem for tight knitters.

 Where to use the k2tog decrease

             You would use the k2tog when you want a right ridged edge.  This is the most often used decrease, along with p2tog.  It is used for shaping garments.  It is also used for pattern stitches, such as lace to even up yo increases.  It is used where a you want a less defined hole than you would get with twisting the sts, as in the ssk.

 Slip Slip Knit: ssk

             You would use the ssk when you want a left ridged edge.  This decrease is most often used in pair with the k2tog.  It is often used in lace type patterns to make a well-defined hole next to a yo.

 Decrease to mirror the k2tog

             The ssk mirrors the k2tog and is often used as the second pair in a paired decrease when you want to create a neat and tidy seam effect, such as decreasing after turning the heel of a sock, and on the toes.

 Yarn overs are used for increasing as well as in knitting lace patterns.

             Note: I almost always do yarn overs "incorrectly" by bringing the yarn to the front under my needle, then wrapping over into my next stitch.  I do it this way because I like it better.  It gives a more defined hole and also leaves the thread laying at the right angle for a quick pickup on the next row.  I've included an extra swatch: #11.a. as an example. 

Four basic weights of yarn and the preferred stitch gauge range and needle size range for each weight.

YARN STYLE           FINGERING            SPORT        WORSTED         BULKY

Wraps per inch          16                            14                12                      10

Typical gauge            6-8                           5-7               4-5                     3-4

Needle size                1-4                           2-6               4-8                     6-10